• Rats
• Mice
• Wasps
• Fleas
• Bedbugs
• Carpeet beetles
• Ants
• Cockroaches
• Birds etc.

Report first to pest control London services.

If you have a pest problem you need to contact one of your local pest conrol specialists in London. They will take all necessary steps to get rid of them. If you need to take control of larger animals (rabbits, squirrels, moles, foxes and deer ) it would be better to require first via website or telephone as not all the pest control London specialists can deal with this.

How to differentiate mice from rats?

Mice cannot be seen during the day time, as they are mostly active at nights. Their nests are usually loose, look like a ball and made from material like paper. Sometimes small dropping and some nibbled food can be found around.
Signs of rats are very similar as they are also active at night time but rats always leave their droppings near any food sources which is the most common sing of them. Also, burrows/holes and nests can be found along with the evidence of tracks and gnawing.

Spreading deseases

Rats and mice can easily spread the infections and deseases which can be passed to humans and sometimes can be fatal to them. They contaminate the environment with their urine, droppings and hair either through surfaces or by direct contamination of food with droppings and urine.
Rats for example can damage property and can cause problems by gnawing electric cables and wires which can lead to a fire. Weil’s desease can be passed be them and it can be fatal to humans.

Improving hygiene

Simple reccomendations can help you to reduce the chances of rats and mice breed. They are the following:

• Store the food in the tight containers, and pests would not have access to the food sources
• Improve hygiene by sweeping up any spills and crumbs and this will restrict the availability of food for mice and rats
• Remove all the rubbish
• Clean under the work units as very often food debris can be found in there

Blocking access points to your home

• Never block air bricks
• Doors should be fitted tightly
• Make sure there are no access points to gas, electricity and water pipes
• Cone guards (can be found in local warehouse or DIY store) fitted around the bottom of drainpipes can prevent rats from climbing up
• Metal balloon guards which can be bought from your local hardware store can prevent them climbing inside by fitting them at the bottom of the drainpipes

Take control of mice either by trapping or poison baiting.

Control of rats can be done by finding the places they are living, feeding and drinking and the routes between them.

You need to look for:

• Burrows or holes
• Droppings
• Runs and tracks
• Footprints
• Musky smell
• Sightings etc.

It is better to find out first how the rats are getting into the place you live. Simply block with the newspaper any holes and come back in 24 hours in order to have a look which holes have been re-opened. And after preventative measures by permanently blocking the holes can be taken.

1. Do not invite pests inside.

Most of the pests including insects and mice like food and water. So,

• Keep your kitchen clean
• Regularly take out the garbage
• Try to store all the food and drinks in tight containers
• Fix all the leaky pipes and try not to leave pets’ food as this attracts cockroaches and other bugs.
• Try to seal off the doorways where the draft can come through

2. You need to know your bugs

Any insect or spider can be called a bug. Specialist from Pest Control in London will help you to choose the right treatment to control pests. As some non-toxic treatments including diatomaceous earth or borax will do a good job on some pests but not the other ones.

3. Try to avoid chemicals as they often more expensive and harmful than non-chemicals

• Fly swatter is very green to get rid of flies and other bugs
• Vacuum cleaning is a good non-toxic way to get rid of some of pests
• Traps, light traps, bait traps or pheromone traps and fly paper can help in eliminating bugs and rodents via non-toxic way

4. Try non-toxic treatment first in targeted areas as it is less costly

• Soap is a successful remedy which have been using for years against ants. (2 tea spoons of castile soap (which is made from 100% olive oil) should be dissolved in a gallon of water, or for the same effect cayenne pepper and oil of eucalyptus can be used )
• Borax or boric acid is another safe way which can help in eliminating cockroaches, silverfish and ants. (If you use sugar with boric acid the result can be amazing and a worth trying one against a whole colony of pests)
• Diatomaceous earth is a good remedy which can help you to get rid of fleas

5. Usage of safer pesticides

• If you decide to buy some pesticides please choose those which are lower in toxins than any other ones. For example organophosphates is more harmful than pyrethins and they even can be found in some production for pets.
• Do not believe advertisements and slogans when they say something like: natural, eco-friendly etc. as natural poisoning can still poison.
• Do always read what the pesticides contain. NEVER BUY ANYTHING CONTAINING NALED, CHLORPYRIFOS, DIAZINON OR MALATHION AND PHOSMET.

6. Smart and minimum usage of pesticides

• Do always read the instruction before and after using the pesticides.
• It is better to dispose them in a safer and smarter manner as well and please do not simply throw them in the trash.
• Do avoid areal sprays.
• Foggers can be used as a last step only.
• Do not use outdoor pesticides for indoors.

Why does the fleas’ life cycle matter? An adult flea has a very hard shell which protects them from crashing by a host. Adult fleas can jump from 3-6 feet in a bound and that is why it can be difficult to catch them and also they are good at hiding. Fleas always try to survive. And their secret lies in their life cycle. Only 5% of fleas are adults which can bite the host. Other 95% include not only eggs but also larvae or pupae which cannot bite but can move around. When we are trying to get rid of them we are actually getting rid of 5% of their population only and the remaining ones taking their time, mature and then start biting. To get rid of the fleas successfully means to get rid of adults, eggs and larvae and pupae. And only after that the house can be a flea free zone.

One year to wait? A common belief people have is that the fleas could not survive without hosts’ blood is true only for adult fleas, as they cannot survive without food for a few days unless they choose to hibernate for a month. Sprays are used as an effective method to kill the eggs but sometimes the second treatment is required. Each treatment can last from 1 to 4 weeks. Larvae are usually hidden in cocoons and can stay there for a year especially in colder times but the presence of warm blooded animals can shorten their life cycle.

Mice, rats and not only pets. This is not right to think that only pets can bring the fleas. Fleas can come from outside the example can be birds, bats, mice and rats. The professional exterminator will always pay attention to the rodents in the house first while starting eliminating the main problem.

Treatment

People normally use sprays and bombs. Other remedies may include garden lime (or Diatomaceous Earth), sprinkling borax which can be spread onto the carpet and hovered later with the dead fleas. Another remedy can be Sevin which is a very recommended one for outside use only as it can cause ham to pets. The most popular method used to get rid of adult fleas at home is to take a light bulb over a small wading pool filled with water in the basement area. The fleas jump towards the heat source, fall into the water, and drown.

So, to be aware of the life cycle of the fleas is important which clarfies the situation how to deal with the such tough customers as fleas.

The warmth of a nearby human body is exactly what does attract bed bugs but they cannot spot a food source that is in range of 5-10cm away. Bed bugs use their extremely developed mouthparts to bite the human skin and suck blood from him.

Feeding time of bed bugs can last between one to seven minutes. And they immediately move away to their hiding place after feasting to continue laying eggs.

The bites of Bed bugs can cause not only itchiness but also swollen rash. This rash does not cure fast and the bite of the bed bugs is more itchy and seriously than bite of mosquito.

A targeted person usually realizes that he has been treated by a bed bug only after he reveals the large welt in the affected place of his body. These welts finally develop into a small red mark that will remain for a minimum period of two to three days. A bite of bed bug can also be distinguished by the well-ordered way the welts are formed, unlike bites of mosquito that have a very random pattern. The treated area of a bed bug bite must never be disturbed by scratching in case to avoid infection. Remember to wash biten places immediately with soap and water.

A starving bed bug that is desperate for blood looks a lot more different compared to one that is quite fed. Young bed bugs or nymphs almost resemble the adult ones but with slight difference colour which is yellowish after moulting. A young bed bug can reach to a fully grown bed bug size for approximately one month depending on his eating frequency. They normally remain in their homes in between meals and are only leave if they are desperate to get food.

Bed bugs do act with sucking the blood but they typically are not connected to the transmission of any disease, unlike mosquitoes, which can transfer different diseases between people. So besides bed bugs are a very nuisance, they still do not pose a medical threat. The bites of bed bugs are not very serious. But there are some bed bugs who can get different infections of skin from scratching the bite of them.

You should always pay more attention to the bites of bed bugs on children. Usually small children do not control scratching an itching rising the risk of the skin infection.

Member’s information and our own observations indeed indicate that during the hottest spell in july large numbers made the usual visits to the barbecue, the picnic in the back garden or made a nuisance of themselves at local beauty spots, this I personaly think was because we suddenly found ourselves tried to make the most of it and got out in the fresh air.

Although the unusually mild spring enabled most Queens to survive, the nests stayed quiet small, this my colleagues and I feel was also due to the mild and very dry spell in the early spring through to mid July which slowed plant growth and the aphids and small insects that wasps rely on to feed their grubs.

As already stated most nests although small survived and we found many multiple nests at properties this year, indeed this has been echoed by many members who have reported a record number of him personally at one property, that numbered some fourteen nests (14) although he assured me he had made a slight reduction per nest which he seemed to think was a discount for quantity.

However I won’t tell you how much of a discount as you might think he is really mean (yes he was!).

We all had the usual panic calls. Like the lady who opened an old rabbit hutch door to see why wasps were going into the cage and she received both a shock as well as several well placed stings.

Amongst this years unusual places were nests in curtains, inside a wardrobe, inside an old toilet system, under a pare bed and under a sink unit.

If any members have any other observations regarding the wasp population, nest sizes or quantity of nests at an individual property we would be very interested, in fact the editorial staff will give a prize to anyone who can beat 14 nests on one property.

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State-of-the-art technology and environmentally safe, our Pest Repeller has electromagnetic and LED night Light functions all in one compact plug-in unit.
The Ionic Air purifier creates a flow of negative ions which helps destroy pollutants. And bacteria in the air, The Night Light cast a reassuring Glow. ]]> http://pestcontrol-london.org.uk/products/ultrasonic-pest-repeller/feed/ 0 http://pestcontrol-london.org.uk/pests/flees/how-to-get-rid-of-fleas-in-carpets/ http://pestcontrol-london.org.uk/pests/flees/how-to-get-rid-of-fleas-in-carpets/#comments Thu, 13 Jan 2011 23:48:47 +0000 admin http://pestcontrol-london.org.uk/?p=336 One of the most important parts of effective flea control is getting rid of the fleas in your home at the same time you get rid of fleas on your pet. Doing one without the other is pointless, as you’ll just see your pet and home re-infested. One of the most common places to find fleas, eggs and larva is in carpets.

The most effective and cheap carpet flea treatments is vacuuming. Vacuuming daily will suck up adult fleas, and also destroy eggs and larva. Try putting some diatomaceous earth, borax, or a flea collar in the vacuum cleaner bag beforehand. This will help kill live fleas that wind up in the bag, and prevent them from escaping back into your home.

First, any throw rugs or carpets that can be washed should be. The same goes for any pet bedding, upholstery, or pillows. Anything that can be effectively washed in your washing machine should be washed in hot water and detergent. This is one of the best ways to kill fleas at all stages of the life cycle.

Using pesticides on your carpet can be effective, but may leave a toxic residue you don’t want. Other ways to treat your carpet is with a non-toxic substance that will scratch the fleas exoskeleton and cause dehydration. Diatomaceous earth, Borax and salt will all achieve this purpose.

If you have a particularly nasty infestation, and you want to try using insecticides, make sure you use one that also contains an insect growth regulator. Both the Knockout and Adams brands contain both.

Steam cleaning, either by a professional service, or with a home steam cleaner, is also very effective. Basically, you want to get the carpet as clean as possible. Once that’s done, try to vacuum at least every other day, if not every day. Pay particular attention to the areas your pet frequents, and under chairs and sofas.

Don’t forget to put something in the vacuum cleaner bag to kill the fleas and eggs that you vacuum up. Flea collars are effective, as are diatomaceous earth, borax and salt.

Be sure to dispose of the vacuum cleaner bag properly by sealing it in a plastic bag before putting it in the trash. Keep to your program of regular vacuuming, and treating your pet for fleas, and you should be well on your way to being rid of your infestation.

beyondfleas.com

The first thing to do is gather up everything in your home that might have been exposed to fleas and which will fit in a washing machine. This can include pet bedding, small carpets, pet toys, throw pillows and the like.

Wash everything you can with detergent and hot water. Anything you can’t wash you might want to consider throwing away, especially if it’s likely to be infested with fleas.

The Importance of Vacuuming

Next, you’ll want to treat your carpets and floors. One of the best and easiest ways to do this is with your vacuum cleaner. Vacuuming alone will get rid of many adult fleas, as well as eggs and larva. It will also break up cocoons and make fleas more vulnerable.

Consider buying a flea collar and placing one in the vacuum cleaner bag before vacuuming to kill fleas that get sucked up. Move as much furniture as possible so you can vacuum those areas that aren’t usually exposed.

The more you can vacuum, the better. Every day is ideal, but if you can’t manage that, then shoot for at least every third day. There’s no way to overstate the value of vacuuming in flea control. It eliminates fleas and eggs, and will also break up the pile of the carpet and allow any sprays you use to penetrate much better.

Flea Sprays and Bombs or Foggers

If you’ve got a particularly bad flea infestation, you’re probably going to want to use some kind of spray on your carpets and furniture. As I mentioned before, the key to selecting the right spray is to find one that will control the pre-adult fleas as well as the adult ones.

The Knockout, Siphotrol and Adams brands of products are very good for killing adult and pre-adult fleas. Please see our helpful product guide for more information. We’ll give you the ins and outs of each product.

In general, sprays that can be directed on the most problem areas are the most effective, as opposed to flea “bombs” or foggers that are set off before you leave your home. Bombs can work well too though, and they’re certainly convenient and might be worth a try if your infestation isn’t too bad.

Stay With the Program

By far the most important thing you can do to get rid of fleas is to stick with it. Even if you’ve treated your home and pets, and the fleas seem to be gone, don’t let up. Eggs and larva may be laying in wait, and will hatch and force you to repeat the process all over again.

So, keep vacuuming, and keep treating your pet every month with the topical flea treatment you’re using. If there’s one secret to effective flea control, it’s being consistent and keeping at it.

Beyondfleas.com

The common Norway or brown rat typically has brownish fur on its back and grey underneath but its colour can vary from white through to black. Adult body length is 200 – 270mm plus a tail length of 150 – 200mm.

The ship or black rat is nowadays rarely encountered in Britain but is smaller than the common rat and usually black in colour. It has large hairless ears and a tail that is longer than its head and body length.

Where do they live?

Common rats live in any situation that provides food, water and shelter. The common rat is the most widespread of its species and is widely found in urban and rural areas. In homes they will live in loft spaces, wall cavities, cellars or under floorboards. In gardens, they will burrow into compost heaps and grassy banks or under sheds. They are also commonly found living in sewer systems.

Ship rats are agile climbers and are usually found indoors, living in roof spaces. They are rarely found in sewer systems.

What are the signs of infestation?

• sightings of live or dead rats
• common rat droppings can be 12mm long and taper at both ends
• runs – rats follow the same routes when travelling and leave trails through the grass and low vegetation
• footprints and tail swipes – on muddy or dusty surfaces
• smears – dark grey marks left on surfaces by repeated contact with rat fur
• burrows – entrance holes 7-120mm in diameter in grassy banks, under tree roots, at the end of paving or drain cover surrounds
• nests – sometime found indoors, in lofts or under floorboards
• gnawing – rats gnaw continually, even on non-food materials, in order to wear down their front teeth

What do they eat?

Their favourite foods are cereal products, although they will eat almost anything that humans eat and some that humans don’t – including each other.

Most of the damage they do is by gnawing and ripping open packets. They also foul food with urine and droppings.

Why must rats be controlled?

• rats can transmit many diseases to humans, including Salmonellosis (food poisoning) and Weils disease
• rats will eat or contaminate food intended for humans. It is estimated that up to 5% of food produced world-wide is lost as a result of rodent activity
• they can cause damage to buildings and other structures by gnawing and burrowing

How can I tell whether my house is infested with rats?

Signs of a rat infestation can include the presence of droppings, footprints in damp soil or dust, and burrows in the ground. Indications of an infestation can include signs of gnawing.

How can I get rid of rats?

Rats are adaptable, highly mobile and breed rapidly. This combination makes rat control a difficult task for the untrained individual. Ealing Council provides a pest control service for the treatment of rats in domestic properties. Fully trained pest control officers will survey the infestation, then place poison bait in the most appropriate locations. Follow up visits will be made in order to ensure the success of the treatment.